Monday, September 14, 2009

How to... Determine Your Skin Type!



I recently returned from a trip to Paris with skin that was all over the map, both literally and metaphorically.  When we first arrived in the City of Light, its arid temperatures dried my skin out, causing a few minor 'episodes' to disappear.  Unfortunately, I chose to compensate for the moisture loss with my rich 'airplane moisturiser.'  Oops... This lead to my skin breaking out just in time for an interesting return journey.  So many factors can affect skin: diet, lifestyle habits such as smoking or drinking excessively, climate and weather, hormones, stress, the list is endless!  Skin is the largest organ of our body (fun fact, no?) so it behooves us to take good care of it.  Therefor, as my inaugural post, I will use this article to open up a whole can of worms on skincare and how to do it right.

Today, we are going to determine our skin type and look at a few different regimens for each.  What's the point of slathering your face in a fancy lait if it is secretly all wrong for you?  Nuttin', that's what.  I'm not a dermatologist or an aesthetician/skin therapist, but I've been reading up on the subject for literally a decade.  If in doubt, consult a professional.  These are meant as guidelines only.  Now: to the bathroom!

Determine Your Skin Type
Go into the bathroom and run lukewarm water.  Cleanse your skin with something gentle such as Cetaphil.  Pat dry with a towel, and hang out for an hour.  Do whatever it is you normally do – Stumble, talk on the telephone, watch a re-run of Gossip Girl, you know, whatever.  Chill.  But don't touch your face!

Once the hour is up, return to the bathroom.  Take a long, hard look at yourself.  What do you see?  How do you feel?  Then consult this handy crack sheet:


Dry skin will feel tight, sometimes itchy.  It has smaller pores and a greater tendency toward fine lines.  It can look or feel somewhat rough, and make have areas of flaking.

Oily skin will have a fine layer of 'gleam' all over.  Typically included are larger pores and possibly a few 'episodes' (my politically-correct term for pimples; I just hate that word so much!)

Normal skin will feel fine and look fine.  You're the laid-back kid on the playground.

Combination skin will be a mix of any of the above cases.  Generally these types are oily in the T-zone and normal or dry on the cheeks.

Sensitive skin could be any of the above as well.  However, this type of skin will have an intolerance for certain ingredients, and may be prone to redness as well.

Ageing skin can also be oily, dry, or combination (or sensitive) with the added concern of fine lines and loss of elasticity or sagging.


Choosing the Right Skin Care
Now that we're armed with this information, how are we supposed to use it?  It is important to understand the needs of each skin type.  For example, somebody who's dry will not exactly love Sea Breeze, but a teenager in the throes of hormonal uproar may find it does the trick on their skin.

Now I present: Crack Sheet No 2!


Dry Skin
Needs: Exfoliation, hydration.
Key Ingredients: Hyluronic acid, petrolatum.
Recommended Arsenal: Cleanser, moisturiser, eye crème, night treatment, scrub.

Oily Skin
Needs: Astringents, exfoliation.
Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur.
Recommended Arsenal: Cleanser (2% salicylic or 5% benzoyl peroxide), toner if extremely greasy, moisturizer, spot treatment, eye crème.

Normal Skin
Needs: Hydration, sun protection1.
Key Ingredients: Parsol 1789.
Recommended Arsenal: Cleanser, moisturiser, eye crème.

Combination Skin
Needs: Hydration, astringents.
Key Ingredients: Hyluronic acid, salicylic acid.
Recommended Arsenal: Gentle foaming cleanser, oil-free moisturiser, heaver lotion for dry patches, spot treatment, eye crème.

Sensitive Skin
Needs: Hydration, soothing, fragrance-free.
Key Ingredients: Oat kernel extract, vitamin E.
Recommended Arsenal: Soap-free cleanser, moisturizer to repair skin's barrier.

Aging Skin
Needs: Hydration, firming.
Key Ingredients: Retinol, kinetin, antioxidants.
Recommended Arsenal: Cleanser, AM moisturiser, PM night treatment, eye crème.


1 Everyone needs sun protection.  Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and Parsol 1789 all provide this crucial element.  Most dermatologists recommend an SPF 30 as a minimum.  Afraid of looking 'pasty?'  Buy bronzer or get airbrushed.  Take a vitamin D supplement or eat salmon/tofu.  But for god's sake, play vampire.

Next up we'll discuss how to go about using our new-found regimens, and further steps we can take to impersonate that lovely PhotoShop 'Diffuse Glow' effect.



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